DISCO BRUNCH
Five years is a long time in Dubai’s food scene. Many a great restaurant has come and gone in less time, and those venues that reach the grand old age of 10 are thought of as veterans.
Okku’s return to Dubai, then, puts the restaurant in a curious position. In a previous life, it lasted for a decade in The H Dubai, one of the originators of high-end Japanese cuisine in the city. But five years ago it closed.
Now open once more, at Marriott Resort Palm Jumeirah, the competition is fierce, both on the Palm and for Japanese food across the city.
There will be enough diners in Dubai who remember the original and have fond memories of the jellyfish tank behind the bar, the late-night cool in terms of the décor and of the food. They will be judging the venue against a nostalgic memory, which are always tough to live up to.
And, with an ever-changing population in the emirate, Okku will have a whole set of diners who know nothing of its past, who will look at the venue without previous opinion.
Is it possible for Okku to please everyone and find its feet among Dubai’s crowded restaurant scene? On the strength of the food, we’d say yes.
The menu is divided into many sections. However, staff know it inside out and are happy with recommendations. Some are quick to upsell and suggest the priciest dishes. Of those, the O-style Hotate – scallop, fig, chive and truffle goma – is a hit, with indulgent ingredients and balanced flavours.
Of the sushi options, Hamachi tataki hit the spot, with seared yellowtail full of flavour and sprinkled with fragrant yuzu kosho. Sashimi is clearly made with the freshest produce and served at the right temperature, something many places don’t do.
Perhaps surprisingly, a side of stir-fried wild mushrooms is a highlight, sizzling in a ponzu butter. Chicken teriyaki does everything it should do, but is the least impressive plate of the meal.
The restaurant itself feels more cavernous than before, and on our last visit, it feels rather empty. Split into a lounge area, sushi counter and smoking and no-smoking dining rooms (all in the same space) it can fit many people. As before it’s dark and the jellyfish are back, though this time virtually.
Fair play to the Okku team, this place has enough nods to its past to give those who remember a Proustian rush, but feels fresh enough to offer something up-to-date for new diners. Welcome back, Okku.